Yosemite National Park, Royale Arches - 5.7R

Yosemite National Park’s Snake Dike (5.7R) climbing route on the west-facing side of Half Dome is an iconic climbing route and sort of a rite of passage for large granite feature rock climbers. The controversial route was first climbed and established by Eric Beck, Jim Bridwell, and Chris Fredericks in 1965. The protection placed on the route was nothing more than a few pitons and quarter-inch bolts. The limited protection and style of climbing is what has led to route’s controversial nature. That being said, it is still an iconic climbing route that should be experienced by all trad climbers who enjoy a 24-hour to multi-day climbing expedition experience.

My experience with Snake Dike is quite personal, even though the route is not particularly complicated to climb, it does take a great deal of effort due to the long approach and decent. I have bailed on the route due to limited water and daylight, climbed it with a team of three leading all 7 to 8 pitches for the general safety of the party, and I have free soloed the route in September of 2024.

Snake Dike - 5.7R

  • 3rd class scrambling and bushwhacking for the approach

  • 7 pitches of bolted anchor climbing

  • 1 pitch with a trad anchor

    1000ft of third-class climbing to the summit

The general full-day hiking and climbing experience for Snake Dike (5.7R):

  • The walk from the car to the trailhead (this will come back to haunt you at the end of the expedition…especially at night). Most people park near their campsite (if you can get one), Curry Village, or the closest point, the trailhead parking lot. I prefer Curry Village parking so I ravage their food and drink afterward.

  • The hike from the trailhead to the water fountain. From here you can fill up your water supply and hydrate before things get interesting.

  • The Mist Trail to the top of Vernal Falls (waterfall ascent 1)

  • The Nevada Falls trail to the Bathroom at the Top of Nevada Falls.

  • The Hike from the Bathroom to the backcountry trailhead turnoff. The turnoff is marked by passing through a gateway of trees.

  • The hike to the base of the 3rd class scramble.

  • The 3rd class scramble to the start..

  • The Climb. (8 pitches of bolted and trad routes)

  • 1000ft of 3rd class slab climbing.

  • The summit. Take pictures, take a break, and enjoy the view as a reward for all your hard work…there is more hard work ahead.

  • down climb the cables with all the hikers.

  • descend subdome

  • hike back to little Yosemite Valley for a water replenishment

  • hike from Little Yosemite valley to the BAthrooms by Nevada Falls

  • Descend Nevada Falls

  • Descend the Mist Trail

  • hike from the water fountain to the trail head

  • hike back to the car

  • grab a victory meal from Curry Village…If anything is still open.

The Climb: Snake Dike - Trad, 5.7R, 8 pitches, 800 ft. of climbing

The climb: Snake Dike - 5.7R
Snake Dike as a climb is a relatively moderate one with 8 pitches on slab, dike systems, and strategic points of friction that is sparsely protected or protectable with trad climbing gear. Notoriously famous for the 50ft runout on the dike system, this climb is a right of passage for any Yosemite climber seeking to make a name for themselves. The major issue with falling on slab is that you are not falling down like you would over some great void. It’s more like falling down a really-really long flight of stairs that is made from granite. So the route still deserves major respect and focus, hence the R rating. A New Zealand woman fell on the route in August 1st, 2022 and sustained life-altering injuries. I will spare you the details since this is not what the guide is about, but the runout section should be taken seriously and led by the most confident climber in the party.

Pitch 1:

Pitch one has a few starting points. to the right you can do a roof crack on slab traverse or the 5.7 friction slab. Once you get to a slab crack system, just follow all the way to the ancors. This is a very comfortable place to belay from and also snap some preliminary adventure photos. Now things are about to get interesting.

Pitch 2:

Pitch two can be a little misleading, some may think to attempt to climb up straight to the dike system, but that is most definitely not ideal. You will need to traverse right and move up a little way to a slab roof and then continue right up a dike system, but don’t go too far. This will be obviously communicated by the second anchor.

Pitch 3:

Pitch 3 contains the infamous 5.7 slab travers with nothing but shoe friction and zero hand holds. It’s actually not as bad as it sounds. Just take your time and use good judgment. Once you reach the dike system and have your oh thank god moment, just start climbing the dike towards anchor 3. From this point on it’s like climbing a ladder, so get ready for a calf burner.

Pitch 4:

Pitch 4 is where we start our epic 50 ft run-out sections. There should be an anchor to the right you can use for protection.

Pitch 5:

Pitch 5 is just more of the dime system.

Pitch 6:

pitch 6 is more of the dike system that will start to reduce in angle.

Pitch 7:

Pitch 7 you will start to make your way through a system of slab crack systems, but unfortunately, your rope will fall short before you make it to the alcove. It is possible to simuclime this section and skip pitch 8 (which is what I did the first time)

Pitch 8:

pitch 8 from your tad anchor position, make your way to the alcove.

Congradulations, you have made it to the alcove. Now break out the water and snacks….also get some rest because now you have 1000ft of slab climbing to finish.

Alternative Passage between Mt Watkins and Liberty cap for those that can easily routefind,.

The descent

I’m assuming if your climbing party is making a move to climb half dome via snake dike that you have already made your way up and down the famouse Yosemite Half Dome Cables. Either Way, you will want to bring your owngloves and use your harness to clip in if you wish. Anything can happen with the weather up there so its always good to have that option.

Gear Beta

The Climb: